It all starts with knowledge: Begin caring for your 4b hair the right way!
Your here because you want to find out what your actual type 4 hair type is? Have you recently become privy to not all ‘black hair’ is 4c hair? Are you finding it hard to comprehend the complexity and uniqueness of your hair? And just to add to your confusion.. did you know you can and probably do have all the of the type 4 category in your hair? Uh huh girl all three type 4a , type 4b, and type 4c. Mind-gobbling we know but don’t worry we’ll talk you through it all.
In short, your hair should be defined as more than just a single letter hair type because it is exactly that. In order to have healthy natural hair that retains length you need to determine what patten/shape, size, and texture your afro is. Then and only then will you be able to truly know everything there is to know about your hair type. So, are you ready for us to break it down?
Who Has Type 4 Hair?
To answer this question correctly we have to analyse your curl patten, size of the curls, and the texture of your hair to determine whether it is truly type 4 hair. Let’s start with the obvious. If you are of African decent.. “HEY TYPE 4 HAIR SISTER”. You see, the type 4 hair type is an afro-textured hair type which could look curly, cotton like, coily, or fluffy to the naked eye. This is very different from European or Middle-Eastern hair textures.
Here’s a chart to show how high type 4 hair sits.
The Obvious Signs You Have 4a Hair
- Hair looks like it has an O-shaped curl pattern
- Stretched out hair has S-shaped curl pattern
- Hair has a clear curl pattern
- Strands independently curl away from other strands of hair
Clear Signs You Have 4b Hair
- Hair looks fluffy or cotton like
- Its difficult to see define a curl pattern but at closer inspection curl patten appears ‘Z’ shaped
- Curl pattern consists of sharp and sudden bends instead of curls or coils
- If you find your hair is often dry even after following the Lazy Girl’s Guide For Staying Natural
- If your hair is prone to breakage
Evident Signs You Have 4c Hair
- Hair pattern is unclear from far
- Up close hair pattern is looks like tightly coiled ringlets
- If you experience extreme shrinkage
- If hair is extremely dry and tough without product after wash days
Let’s begin to dig deeper. As we have already mentioned you can (and probably do) have more than one hair type on your head. It’s important to understand what the dominating hair type is. Is your hair predominately 4b hair with hints of 4c. Or 55% 4c hair with 35% 4b hair and 10% 4a hair. It may seem hard to believe but this can be true for some people. So how do we test this? How can we work out what hair type your head largely has?
Test Out Strands To Differentiate What Type 4 Hair Type You Have L.O.I.S Method (Dry)
The L.O.I.S method looks at your strands and takes into consideration the size of your stands. For best results we recommend plucking 4 stands of hair from around your head. One strand from your temple or edges. A strand from the top of your head. One strand from the crown of your head. And finally, one from your nape (back of your head).
Here’s an easy to read synopsis (we meant it when we said we got you)
The L In L.O.I.S Looks At The Bend Of Your Strands
L: When your hair is combed out is hard to detect a curl pattern?
If yes, when you take a closer look at your plucked strand, does it have sharp turns or does the shape of your strands look similar to a Z. You could have 4b hair.
Or are your strands more of a loose large O shaped? You may have 4b hair.
The Meaning Of O In The L.O.I.S Method
O: Do you strands resemble an O pattern? Do they look like little curls or coils? If you are unsure, rest the hair on a table and tung at the hair (not too hard so you avoid breaking the hair). Then look at the natural shape your hair takes.
If your strand curls or coils you could have 4c hair. Remember you may get different results for different strands and that is ok.
The I In L.O.I.S Looks At The Straightness In Your Strands
I: Do you not have a curl pattern? Does your hair look straight or closest to straight. Are there not any significant curls or coils to your hair. If yes, you may not have a type 4 hair type at all. Your hair is more likely to be type 1.
The S In L.O.I.S Looks At The Wave In Your Strands
S: Do your stands look like little ‘S’ when left in their natural state? Can you see visible curves in your strand? If yes, it appears that your hair falls under the type 2 hair category.
For arguments sake lets say 3/4 strands fall into the L.O.I.S description. How do you know for sure that your hair is type 4?
Try The Hydration Test To Whether You Have Type 4 Hair (wet)
- Step 1: Wash all product from your hair the day before and let you hair dry (preferably over-night).
- Step 2: After 15 hours or more.. run your whole head under a shower head for 8-10 seconds.
- Step 3: Ask yourself the below questions:
Is you hair fully saturated with water? If yes, you have hair type I or type 2 hair (out of the L.O.I.S method) skip this section as this is solely for type 4 hair. If not, does your hair still feel dry? Do the outer stands of your hair feel wet but your roots still feel dry?
If the answer is yes (which it should be), go again. Place your head directly underneath the shower head for another 8-10 seconds. Repeat placing your head under water for 8-10 seconds at a time until your hair is FULLY saturated. By this we mean.. every hair strand should be wet.
Take note of how many times you need to have your head under the shower head until all you hair is wet.
Once your hair is fully water absorbed, use a t-shirt to pat your hair dry. Then use this chart to get a deeper understanding of your hair.
What Your Type 4 Hair Care Routine Should Be:
Daily
Practice the LOC Method or LCO Method using:
Liquid (water), Oil, and Cream / Liquid (leave-in condition), Oil, and Cream.
Seal hair using this method once a day to effectively lock in moisture.
Weekly MUST DO’s For Healthy 4b Hair
Shampoo and condition your type 4 hair once a week. Do not use stripping, cleansing, or clarifying shampoos as you will do this on week two. Cleansing your hair too often will cause your hair to break due to cleansers being drying. Cleansers or clarifiers are used to extract excess oil, dirt, and build up from your hair. This is why we use gentle and moisturising shampoos on weekly wash days.
Fortnightly Type 4 Hair Care Routine
Shampoo your hair using a clarifying shampoo (recommendations further down).
- Clarifying or cleansing your hair will remove any build of product you have used in the two weeks
- Grease, dirt, and/or hard/well water will be lifted
- Hair will appear healthier and easier to manage as a result of being light weight and bouncier
Hot Oil Treatments
Use a hot oil treatment every two weeks. Hot oil treatments are a great way for your type 4 hair to get the maximum amount of oil back into your strands. We recommend using this treatment every two weeks for both high and low porosity hair. Hot oil treats have many benefits such as:
- Reduces the chance of breakage
- Promotes hair growth by increasing blood circulation to the scalp
- Helps hair manageability by reducing splitends and frizz
Beware to not over heat your oil as this will increase cuticle damage.
Deep Condition Your Type 4 Hair Monthly:
Deeply conditioning your natural hair is a nonnegotiable. Deep conditioning (in our opinion) is the reset your hair needs after a long month of stressing, styling, washing, moisturising, and getting dirty. Deep conditioning your hair:
- Restores your moisture balance
- Reduces breakage and spilt ends
- Encourages elasticity and bounce
- Promotes shine
Weekly Type 4 Hair Product Recommendations
Non-clarifying Type 4 Hair Shampoos (Safe To Use Weekly)
Aunt Jackie’s – Oh So Clean Moisturising & Softening Shampoo
Gentle enough for daily use. This shampoo treats dry hair with coconut oil, shea butter, and extra virgin olive oil.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £7.45
Mielle’s – Pomegranate & Honey Moisturising and Detangling
The honey and babassu oil moistures your hair whilst lathering strands with the tasty smells of pomegranate.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £13.80
Palmer’s – Coconut Oil Formula Shampoo
This moisture boosting shampoo will gently extract build up, add strand strength, and seal moisture into your hair.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £2.10
Gentle type 4 hair conditioners to add to your weekly wash routine
Mielle’s – Pomegranate & Honey Moisturising and Detangling Conditioner
Use this conditioner after using the Mielle – Pomegranate & Honey Moisturising and Detangling shampoo. This conditioner will give your hair slip, moisture, and strength.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £12.99
Aunt Jackie’s – In Control Conditioner
Paired well with Aunt Jackie’s Outta My Hair this condition does exactly what you’d want your conditioner to do. It nourishes dehydrated and brittle strands. Its shea butter, extra virgin olive oil, and keratin enriched ingredients will leave your hair feeling soft, strong, and shiny.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £6.99
Palmer’s – Coconut Oil Repairing Conditioner
Use this product after using Palmer’s Coconut Oil Shampoo. It tackles afro dryness and damage. Packed with vitamin E oil and raw coconut oil, this will help your hair become more manageable.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £4.73
Type 4 Hair Products You Should Use Fortnightly
Why should 4a, 4b, and 4c hair be clarified every two weeks?
You need to remove build up left resting on your strands such as; dirt, grease, silicones, and hard or well water. Hard water describes water that has large amounts of minerals and metals. Examples of these are calcium or magnesium. By clarifying your hair you are gently (given you are using non-harsh products) stripping the coat of minerals that stick to your strands. This makes it easier for your hair to absorb any nutrients and/or product you use.
Clarifying shampoo should be used once every two weeks to deeply cleanse your hair.
See clarifying shampoos below:
Eden Bodyworks – Peppermint Tea Tree Shampoo
Described by Eden Bodyworks as “a morning alarm for your senses and scalp!” This essential oil cleansing shampoo leaves your scalp tingling and renewed while increasing circulation and encouraging hair growth.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £13.61
Camille Rose – Sweet Ginger Clean Rinse
This sweet ginger and lemon peel clean rinse is great for 4b hair. Aniseed, cassia, and castor oils have been added to soften strands. It is (of course) natural hair friendly free of sulfate, parabens, and harmful chemical additives.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £16.80
Kinky Curly – Come Clean
Come Clean is a natural chelating agent that removes hard water minerals such as calcium and magnesium. It is made with a blend of Mandarin orange and sea kelp. Your hair will LOVE you after using Come Clean.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £14.99
Bounce Curl – Gentle Clarifying Shampoo
This clarifying shampoo gently removes the unwanted build up on your hair without drying out/ stripping out you natural oils. Pomegranate and pumpkin enzymes are mixed into this shampoo to exfoliate and revitalise your scalp. Remember healthy hair starts with a health scalp!
Buy From: Amazon
Price: £27.99
Shea Moisture – Manuka Honey Shampoo
The Manuka Honey Shampoo cleanses, hydrates, softens, and adds shine to your hair. This is done with the use of mafura oil, baobab, and fair trade butter, and antioxidant rich fig.
Buy From: Amazon
Price: £12.94
The Importance Of A Hot Oil Treatment For Your Type 4 Hair – Do This Every 2 Weeks
Hot oil treatments have many benefits when used on type 4 hair. The nutrients in plant based oils such as coconut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, castor oil, and Jamaican castor oil can help to strengthen your hair whilst preventing frizz and split ends. The nutrients found in natural oils can also promote growth due to its ability to encourage extra blood circulation. Your hair will look and feel restored and shinny.
Whether your hair is high or low porosity, hot oil treatments work for both hair types. The long lasting effects are minimal for high porosity hair. Nevertheless, it is still advised for both high and low to regularly use hot oil treatments as a way to open up strands and improve retention.
DO NOT’S For Hot Oil Treatments
- Don’t over heat oil
- Stop using too much oil
- Vegetable or mineral oils should not be used
Oils That Are Type 4 Hair Friendly For Hot Oil Treatments
Coco Road Organic & Fair Trade Virgin – Coconut Oil
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £5.95
Napolina – Olive Oil
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £3.50
Sky Organics – Castor Oil
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £14.95
Jamaican Black Castor Oil
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £9.48
Tisserand Aromatherapy Grape Seed Oil
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £3.69
Steaming Type 4 Hair Every Two Weeks Will Change Your Hair Game!
Steaming your face is a gentle and soothing way to promote blood circulation, hydrate, cleanse your skin – so why don’t we use it on our hair? Well.. we can! Steaming your hair can open up your hairs cuticle layer, encourage products to penetrate your strands much deeper than with warm water, and intensifies moisture.
What Will You Need To Steam Your 4b Hair?
- Steamer (face steamer preferred)
- Hydrating and detangling conditioner/ deep conditioner
- Sealing pure oil packed with vitamins
- Distilled water
- Spray bottle
Distilled water
Wash your face before you begin the steaming your hair. Your face can also reap the benefits of the steaming process so don’t miss out – make this a face and hair self-care routine.
How To Steam 4b Hair?
- Fill your steamer with your distilled water. Using distilled water will ensure your hair is free from aluminum, arsenic, copper, iron, lead, pesticides, herbicides, uranium and more.
- Before use ensure your spray bottle is clean. Pour your distilled water into your spray bottle and spray directly onto your hair. While your hair is absorbing the water and softening start to gentle divide your hair into small manageable sections. Sectioning your hair into six or more parts is advised.
- Take a sectioned part of your hair and run your fingers through it to slowly detangle. Avoid using a comb as this may cause unnecessary breakage. While your parted hair is being steamed, apply a generous amount of hydrating conditioner / deep conditioner. Continue to work your hands through your strands making sure all your strands are saturated with conditioner and steamed water.
- When you are satisfied with the steaming and conditioning process apply your sealant. This should be a pure oil. This means your oil should be plant based / natural oils. While working the oil into your hair remain steaming.
- After you have successfully sealed your hair with oil (hair should feel coated with your oil of choice), twist your hair from root to end.
- Repeat this process until your head is full of bouncy moisturised twists.
Steamer
Buying a steamer with a rotatable spray tube is advised as you are able to target sectioned hair easier.
From: Amazon
Price: £69.99
Type 4 Hair Friendly Deep Conditioners To Use Monthly
The Mane Choice – Soft As Can Be
This 3 in 1 revitalise and refresh conditioner will bring shine, softness, and manageability to your fro. It gently lifts impurities and product build up out of your hair And, at the same time the detangling formula helps to get rid of knots and tangles while leaving your hair feeling softer.
Buy From: Amazon
Price: £19.89
Shea Moisture – Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Treatment Masque
A mix of Mafura oil, Baobab oil, raw shea butter, anti-oxidant rich African rock fig, Manuka honey, and oils. These ingredients combined help to moisturise, soften, remove fizz, nourish, and smooth your natural type 4 hair.
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £11.29
The Shea Moisture Jamaican castor oil blend strengthens and restores hair. This treatment mask is a deep conditioner that supports your hairs elasticity and fights against breakage. It also has peppermint oil added into this conditioner which will help with your hairs health, softness, and shine.
Shea Moisture – Jamaican Castor Oil Strengthen and Restore
Buy from: Amazon
Price: £12.75
Start Today – Caring For Your Hair The Right Way!
Us naturals get stuck on labels when we need to embrace how truly different our hair type is compared to others. In order to treat your hair with the correct care you cannot simply go off what category your hair falls under. But rather how your hair performs under different circumstances. Treat discovering your hair as a science experiment or better yet, treat it as getting to know yourself better. Once you have figured out your hair type, pattern, and texture, you can follow the correct regime to maximise your hairs health.
Take a before and after picture of your hair before and after you have implemented our week by week hair care recommendations. And, tell us how well they are working for you.
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